Sunday Afternoon in the Marais

Last Sunday I decided to visit the Marais – as a tourist, sort of. I’m finding it hard to act like a tourist now that I’m living here - but I'm sure that I can manage. And I suppose that it helps that I can only speak "tourist" French. 

My visit started with a ride on the metro to St. Paul . I was happy that I chose the sortie (exit) with escalator. Those of you who are familiar with the Paris metro will understand what I mean. 

First stop was lunch at La Ciderie du Marais. It was easy to find on Rue Sevigne – directly across the street from the Eglise St. Paul.

 The church is definitely worth a visit and I recently attended a concert there. I found discount tickets on Billetreduc and saw Vivaldi’s Four Seasons in a 17th century setting for only 17.00€.

Back to lunch. Just steps off of the very busy, and touristy Rue St. Antoine I was surprised that there were several empty tables at 12:30 on a Sunday. I had a nice sidewalk table – and a direct view of the church. It was worth it already.

 It was hard to decide which savory crepe to order but I finally chose the “La Forestiere” with creamy chicken and mushrooms, and a cup of cidre.

 The description was spot-on as the mushrooms tasted like the forest – which in this case was good thing. And the cidre went with it perfectly. I sort of wished that I had ordered the small pitchet, instead of just a cup of cider. Total for lunch 12.50€ - not bad.

Next on my agenda was the Musee Carnavalet – the history of Paris museum. Being one of the City of Paris museums, admission is free. It’s a short walk from the restaurant. The entrance is on Rue Francis Bourgeois.

 Another bonus of visiting on a Sunday is that many of the streets in the neighborhood are car-free on Sundays and most of the shops are open.

 Turning the corner to go in the entrance of the Carnavalet, there was a band playing on the sidewalk and they had gathered quite a crowd. I could have stayed and watched for a lot longer than I did. Be prepared for diversions as you explore Paris. You never know what you might come across.

At the museum I decided to go ahead and see the special Napoleon in Paris exhibit – this cost 9.00€. It was interesting. I liked the clothes and the furniture the best – especially Napoleon’s throne, but the remainder was much too detailed for me.

 Now that I’m done with Napoleon, I’m ready to see the remainder of the museum. It’s arranged mostly by century and is not so large that it’s overwhelming like some other museums. My favorites were the Sign Gallery and a painting of the construction of the Statue of Liberty.

This painting nearly brought me to tears. I can’t explain why it hit me that way. That seems to be happening to me a lot these days. Sure beats being depressed and living in St. Louis.

Interestingly, I just learned - thanks to Google and a friend of mine, that June 17, 2015 is the 130th anniversary of the statue's arrival in New York. Is it a coincidence that I'm writing about it today? 

 I was a bit disappointed that the section on the French Revolution was closed, as was the section of Paris from pre-historic times. But I’ll be back.  This will be easy to do too – since it’s free.

 After I left the Carnavalet, I stopped and browsed in a couple of shops as I made my way to the Place des Vosges to visit the Maison Victor Hugo – another free museum.

It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon in Paris and the Place des Vosges was packed with people taking advantage of the nice weather.

 The Maison Victor Hugo is the actual apartment where the author of Les Miserables lived from 1832-1848, but it’s not in its original state. It’s been arranged to evoke a feeling of what it may have been like at the time. Definitely worth a visit – and the price is right, it’s free.

Even though there was no line at the Carnavalet and a short line at Maison Victor Hugo I’ve managed to spend about 5 hours on my adventure – which was just about right for me.

As a tourist you will probably spend more time wandering the streets and looking into shops and it would be easy to spend a full day in this small section of the Marais.

Total spent for the day was 21.50€.

Lunch: 12.50€

Napoleon Exhibit: 9.00€

My metro ride was free, with my monthly Navigo Decouverte pass. Otherwise the metro is 1.80€ for a single ride.

I had a fun afternoon. I hope that you did too.

 

 

On a Dime Day Trip to Auvers sur Oise - A Walk in Van Gogh's Footsteps

About an hour away from Paris is the lovely village of Auvers sur Oise. I went specifically to see the room and the village where Vincent Van Gogh spent his last 70 days.

Brass Pavement Marker

Brass Pavement Marker

 On the weekends from April to September there is a direct train (RER H) from Gare du Nord leaving at 9:38 a.m. Or more frequent trains that require an easy transfer at Pontoise – just make sure you chose a train stopping at Pontoise. I was able to travel for free using my monthly Navigo Decouverte pass. Otherwise the tickets are 5.95 each way.

Lots of informational signs

Lots of informational signs

I had planned to arrive early in an effort to beat the crowds. In the end I arrived later than I had hoped – but there were no crowds at all. Nice bonus.

 I would recommend stopping first at the tourist office to pick up a map. But the town is well signed and easy to navigate.

Directional Signs

Directional Signs

 The first Van Gogh site I saw was the Mairie (City Hall). How nice of them to display a copy of his painting from 125 years ago.

 Directly across the street is the Auberge Ravoux, where Van Gogh lived in an attic room for 70 days in 1890.

 The entrance is around the corner in the back. After I paid my 6.00€ entrance fee I followed the informational signs and made my way up the stairs to the gift shop (very tasteful) to wait for my tour. At one point I thought I was going to have a private tour, but then a few more people showed up.

 The slide show was interesting and informative. And seeing his tiny room was moving. It’s been restored to its original state.

Van Gogh's Room is in the Attic

Van Gogh's Room is in the Attic

 After my tour I decided to walk to the Chateau. This is not really a Van Gogh site, but I thought it was at least worth seeing from the outside – and it was.

 Next, I thought I would try the Absinthe museum – but it wasn’t open. They don’t open until 1:30. Maybe I’ll go next time.

After this I continued on my way to see the church and the cemetery. I really didn’t need my map.  I just had to follow the signs.

 It was a nice walk along a pretty and sometimes walled street. I wondered what was behind those walls. Then, all of the sudden the church appeared. It was a “Wow!” moment.

Wow! Look at those steps.

Wow! Look at those steps.

I climbed up the stairs to the back of the church. It was much bigger than I expected. There was a wedding that day so I was unable to go inside. But that’s okay. I got to see what I was looking for when I saw the church from the front – from nearly the exact same spot where Van Gogh painted it. I knew this because there was sign showing the painting in front of the church. What a magical moment.

 Next to the church is the road that leads to the cemetery where Vincent and his brother Theo are buried.  It was on this walk that it hit me - a moment that’s hard to explain with words. The narrow road surrounded by farm fields was so peaceful.

 As I approached the cemetery there was another sign on the wall of a Van Gogh painting. I looked into the distance and saw the same scene and the same buildings that Van Gogh had painted. This nearly brought me to tears. I can even feel the emotion of that moment as I write this. I have to go back.

RIP

RIP

Poppies and Rapeseed

Poppies and Rapeseed

Rapeseed

Rapeseed

 I had planned to stop for lunch but nothing looked appealing to me so I just stopped at Carrefour and picked up a sandwich and a soda for a whopping 2.65€. I ate my sandwich while waiting for the train, and getting one last glimpse of the church.

Gare Auvers sur Oise

Gare Auvers sur Oise

Trains to Pontoise leave Auvers every 30 minutes. Then I had 10 minutes to my connecting train to Gare du Nord. In about an hour I was back in Paris.

 I spent less than 10€ on my day trip. But the experience was priceless.

Thank you Vincent

Thank you Vincent